Digest 2013 Summer Collection
成衣系列“消” [ summer rest 夏息 ]
概念系列“化” [ crack 罅隙 ]
The point of departure for this design series is quite simple. Many designer friends have discovered a traditional hand-woven ramie hemp, a fabric originated in China – summer fabric – the texture and the original woven technique of the fabric propel the designers to adopt it into their creativity. The contemporaries acclimatized to industrial products, whether the wearer or the professional tailors (pattern designer, sample tailor) may experience the vitality and uniqueness of a fabric composed of a thread that had been stranded, woven and dyed by hand. Every bolt of this fabric measures 25 meters long, and its width ranges from 30 to 60 cm, whereas a bolt of industrially produced cotton or hemp usually measures 50-100 meters, with a width of 150cm. in the process of designing and clothes-making, we had left out the seams the fabric as much as possible. Thereby, we have manipulated the “boundary” of the clothes confined by the narrow width of the fabric – on the shape of the clothes, the seams where the fabrics overlap, and the choice of sewing techniques.
这次的系列命名为＂Summer Rest 夏息＂因为英文里 Rest 除了有＂休息＂还有＂余下＂的意思。夏布作为一种非物质文化产物，在工业物质泛滥的今天，已经被边缘化到了只能作为家纺材料出现，人们对一块布料＂精细＂状态的期待已经被机械力度调到了纳米级别——人工用蛋白已经能合成接近真丝的纤维，碎棉絮也能被铜氨溶液化合成各种高级纤维，甚至是皮草，谁还在乎那几块＂粗麻布＂呢？我们不敢停歇，为创造一个崭新的世界，不惜代价... 可我们真的需要停下脚步，休息一会儿了，哪怕只是在工业文明的罅隙里。
The series, entitled “Summer Rest” demonstrates two layers of meaning. In English the term rest, does not only hold the meaning to “relax” but also what is “leftover”. Summer Fabric as an immaterial cultural product is mostly seen as a domestic fabric and it has been marginalized in ubiquity of industrial products. People’s expectations on the “sophistication” of fabrics has been manipulated by the arrival of nano-technology where protein can be manually compressed into silk-like fiber and raw cotton can be made into sophisticated fiber with copper-ammonia, or the use of faux-fur, who still cares about those pieces of “raw hemp”? We may not stop from creating a brand new world at all costs … yet we need to slow down our steps to rest, even only on the crevasse of industrial civilization.
The shade is only enough to cast over the body from the heat of a summer’s day.
Text - Dooling Jiang
Summer Fabric was originated in the Song Dynasty as a tributary item for the imperial palace. There has been over 1200 years of history in the making. Its craftsmanship has maintaining the original structure of the natural fiber without any addition of chemical fiber, yet it is a wear-proof, breathable, humidity absorbing, and does not cause irritation to the skin.
Liuyang Summer Fabric uses ramie hemp, is woven with traditional techniques. The traditional technique involves steps such as, ripping the hemp, compressing the hemp, doffing, combing, weaving, dying, polishing and etc. its dying process is especially interesting, which consists of six steps such as bleaching in water and by sunlight and etc, without using bleaching agents. Bleaching in the Liuyang River, is to boil and steam the fabric with alkalized limewater, then washes repetitively in the river, and then dried off the fabric on the river bank. Liu Yang Summer Fabric is a sophisticated, light, soft, breathable, suitable for summer, easy to wash and dry, and whitens with time.
消化在 2012 年春夏推出了 [ 设计基础款 Digest FOUNDATION ]，并在之后巩固了这个分线。
每个款式都出自 Dooling Jiang 的剪裁，完整的表达了设计师对衣装的理解；她相信这些看似简单，却充满当代审美和东方气质的服装，会逐渐成为东方人在日常生活中乐于去穿着的服饰。
消化在 2013 年的夏天推出了 [ 夏布收藏款 Digest SUMMERRest ]
在这个分线中，设计师 Dooling Jiang 尝试用当代的制衣手法来设计中国的传统面料 —— 夏布 [ 由苎麻织造的平纹布 ]，由此去探寻，在急速虚拟化的世界图景下，传统手工制物还能为人们带来怎样的日常体验。
post date: 2013/06/15